Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Game Drives on the Serengeti and the Joys and Challenges of Camping

Returning from the Masai Mara plains to the Big Smoke of Nairobi, after a harrowing nine hours on the road, culminating in a delirious karaoke session of Bless The Rain Down in Africa and Lion Sleeps Tonight and, too exhausted to put up tents, we all opt for an upgrade to a hostel. Sunday dawns and we pick up three extra passengers, Steve, a meteorologist from London and Pam and Michael, a thrill-seeking couple from Scotland doing a world trip!

After travelling across the border to the bustling city of Arusha in Tanzania, on Day Five of our Absolute Africa tour, we pick up five Canadian lads who have just climbed Kilimanjaro who regale us with tales of hiking the famous mountain. When we arrive at the camping ground, a dramatic change occurs!

We switch vehicles from the big yellow bus, our mobile lounge room, to a smaller safari vehicle with canvas roll-up windows. We change crew from our happy-go-lucky tour leader, Edmund with his cheerful motto “Let’s make a plan” and our pensive driver Stephen to a new commander-in-chief, Joe, a stocky, athletic guy with a direct approach and “No guarantees” (about hot showers) and our new driver Patrick, with his beaming smile and relaxed Reggae style! 


And we combine with another tour group to become 17 passengers in total.
 The transition is a mild shock that night at the Arusha campsite when three tour groups converge and our small team is assigned to cook for 29 famished travellers! (an additional 12 are heading in another direction).

A Camp Feast

Edmund and I rise to the challenge to become Camp Cooks Extraordinaire and swing into action with Merethe and Julio pitching in with gusto. I’ve never chopped up so much coleslaw in my life! Other helpers peel a giant mound of potatoes for mash and enough carrots and beans to feed an army and Edmund makes a mountain of rice and chicken. What a feast!

Monday morning, we meet our new travelling companions, Nathan and Priya, a charming Indian couple on an exciting world trip, Rachel and Paul, high flyers from London, Barry, a burly Aussie, Yan from Canada, Hannah and Olga from California and Danielle, a Aussie nurse who’s been on the tour since Cape Town.

Joe announces we have a roster for cooking, clean-up, security and truck duty. We need to go shopping for food supplies before we hit the road so my team and I frantically search the aisles for Mexican ingredients. When we can’t find tortillas we improvise with Indian chapattis and grab bags of cassava chips instead of corn chips for nachos! With mincemeat, red kidney beans, tomato paste, chilli and a massive bag of avocadoes, we’re good to go.




Finally we set off through the rolling countryside of Tanzania, passing through little townships, waving back at happy, laughing children, heading for the Ngorongoro Crater, to experience a unique game drive in this spectacular volcanic caldera formed three million years ago, which offers an ideal, protected eco-system to many species.

The term ‘game drive’ originated when hunters with their sinister guns would go out in search of  ‘game’ to shoot and kill. Thankfully these days most people just want to shoot these beautiful animals with their camera.

The landscape of the crater is eerie, like another planet! In our jeep, we spot three lions and three lionesses eating a warthog surrounded by opportunistic hyenas and a jackal, hoping to steal some fresh meat and later in the tranquil jade green lake, we marvel at the sight of a school of basking hippos, while a solitary elephant forms a magnificent silhouette against a mountain backdrop.


Incoming Rain

Day Seven, on the road to Serengeti is abysmal. We bounce along rough roads for endless miles when the sky opens up and pours with rain so heavy that water is pelting through the canvas sides. We all sit in the vehicle in our raincoats trying to squint through the haze and spot animals but they have all gone into hiding and our game drive is a washout! 



Tired and hungry and keen to get to our camping ground, a tanker accident on the track blocks our way for an hour.

When we finally set up our tents in the pitch dark, everyone is ravenous and tonight is our turn to make our Mexican feast. So we crack on and finally feed the hungry hoards our African-Indian-Mexican fusion capped off with Julio’s delicious guacamole! I crawl into my sleeping bag, exhausted.

Elephants At Breakfast

After the rain, we wake up to a sparkling, perfect morning with elephants grazing near our campsite! What a promising way to start the day, which turns out to be magical – safari gold! The animals are out in force, grazing on fresh, moist grass and prancing and playful as we drive across the famous Serengeti; a national reserve, Joes tells us, is 14,763 square kilometres and as big as Holland!







We sight an abundance of zebras, gangling giraffes munching n treetops and a herd of old cape buffalo carrying cheeky yellow billed ox peckers on their backs!










Joe is in his element sharing his knowledge of wildlife and tells how the old, “bachelor buffaloes” hang out together, when past their prime, they are rejected by the fit, young herd.



We are all so exuberant today to be in true safari-mode with zoom lenses at the ready. The Serengeti boasts a population of 5000 lions and we are itching to spot the big cats.

Then it happens. Dozens of jeeps are stopped on the track with eager tourists glued to cameras poking out the rooftops and windows captivated by some unfolding drama. The frantic scene is like the paparazzi of the animal world with the Big Cats the sought-after celebrities.










Mother Lion Reprimands Cub

As we draw closer, we see a female lion pacing the road while two other lionesses guard five feisty cubs sitting obediently on a log. 
We see Mum drag her kill, a small gazelle, under a tree, where a leopard is draped in the overhead branches. She calls to the cubs with a low growl and four of them come scampering for lunch and settle in to eat while she keeps watch. She calls again to the tardy cub who bounces towards his mother and she gives him a good swipe on the head and roars, reprimanding him, as if 
to say” “Come when I call!” The other two females continue to keep watch while all the cubs feed.

What an extraordinary and thrilling drama to see played out in nature! I have to pinch myself! We are privileged to witness this little scenario happening in real-life, not sitting on the sofa watching a TV wildlife show!


Joes explains that female lions live and hunt together caring for a collection of cubs that can belong to the different mothers while male lions usually leave the pride after mating and roam around as solitary hunters or team up with other males.

We stop at the Serengeti tourist centre for lunch. Then five minutes before the bus is about to leave, Julio and I behave like naughty children running off to buy souvenirs and delay our departure, much to everyone’s disapproval.


The Leopard Encounter


I am standing at the front of the bus when we approach a few vehicles stopped on the track with binoculars and cameras glued to a small bush. I spot her first! A leopard! She is motionless, transfixed, staring at something in the distance. Everyone is lined up along at the open windows to see what’s happening. In a flash she pounces and strikes the helpless gazelle in the neck. We are gasp and shriek! Oh My God! We just witnessed a kill - the Serengeti’s ultimate thrill! I feel sorry for the gazelle, which had obviously wandered off from the safety of the herd. Isolated and vulnerable, he was easy prey for the lightening fast wild cat.


Now the leopard is poised clutching the gazelle in her powerful jaws as our cameras click this incredible image but she is shy and nervous about the human audience so drags the dead gazelle under a bush to eat in peace. 

I admit it was irresponsible to hold up the bus buying souvenirs, but I like to think the fateful delay led us to seeing the leopard kill! If we’d been 20 minutes earlier on that road we would have missed this thrilling spectacle!

A Serengeti Thunderstorm

We arrive at the rustic Bush Camp, with its rusty iron toilet and shower block and rickety old shelter shed in the early afternoon, delighted to have time to wash our dirty clothes and hang them out in the sweltering sun.

The hot sun is like a sauna and we strip down to shorts, singlets and sunnies for cool drinks. Some opt for invigorating cold showers, others are hard at work scrubbing clothes in plastic dishes.

A small group heads off for a guided nature walk and others stroll to the nearby luxury lodge for drinks on the deck.





But the idyllic interlude is short-lived. Gunmetal clouds are gathering overhead. We grab the clothes from the lines and relocate them under the shelter and Joe is going around securing all the tents with pegs. I zip up the front of our tent and flee to the dilapidated shelter. And then it happens.

The rain teems down with frightening force, coming in sideways under the shelter. The strung-up laundry is flapped around and saturated. Three camp rangers seek cover but they are unfazed by the familiar torrential rain. We watch wide-eyed as the camping ground is rapidly submerged under a foot of water. 

The nature walkers return to join us in the shelter, two girls have sought refuge in the bus, Joe and Patrick are waiting out the storm in the cabin and the rest of our travellers are watching the show at the Lodge.

The deluge, thunder and distant lightning lasts for an hour and abruptly stops. I realise I forgot to zip up the back window of our tent and discover that one of the mattresses is soaked. Staring at the prospect of sloshing around in a waterlogged camp and sleeping in a wet tent, in a moment of panic, I want an upgrade to the safety of the luxury lodge! But lovely Patrick gives us a fresh mattress and the water miraculously recedes.

That night the cooking team, Priya, Yan, Danielle and Merethe cook up a scrumptious feast of stir fry veggies and chicken and we have a sing along in the rusty old shelter. After the storm, all is well in the camp again. 




The Challenges of Camping

*Taking cold showers

*“Drying” myself with a smelly, damp towel

*Running out of clean undies!

*Finding something to wear from a bag full of filthy clothes

*Obsessing over rummaging through my bags and sorting out stuff

*Giving up make-up

*Dirty fingernails

*Gashing my thumb on the truck’s metal locker, and being covered in a colourful assortment of bruises and cuts

*Getting sick from driving for hours on bumpy roads

*Catching my hair on the zip of the tent (every time!)  

*Putting up the tent in the dark and putting down the tent in the dark before breakfast at 6 am.

*Wishing I had a head torch

*Stopping the bus on a dusty track for us girls to squat behind a bush while the guys go on the other side

*African toilets (say no more!)

*Hearing scary heavy rain on the tent!

*Scrambling to find my hiking boots and raincoat

*Wishing I’d brought my Canon camera and zoom lens for better close-ups of wildlife

The Joys of Camping

*Cooking outdoors on an open fire for hungry travellers

*Sitting around a campfire, gazing at the mesmerising flames, with the smell of smoke in the crisp night air

*A chorus of bird song at dusk

*Looking up at a vast African night sky ablaze with sparkling stars

*Finding zebras and elephants outside our tent

*The smell of the rain

*The relief of having brought a raincoat only yesterday!

*Climbing into a sleeping bag

*Lying snug inside and listening to gentle rain on the tent

*Making deep friendships by experiencing real adventures together

*The private bliss of riding along in the back of the bus, watching spectacular scenery roll by, waving at happy children, while listening to my favourite music through earplugs, snuggling next to my buddies.   


Game driving is exhilarating and addictive. I’ve developed a taste for seeing animals in the wild and a taste for camping, tents and campfires. The joys of this adventurous outdoor lifestyle far outweigh the challenges.


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